History of footwear in India can be traced back through centuries old Hindu, Buddhist and Jain scriptures as well as several sculptures, coins and paintings. Footwear have been in usage in ancient India as a necessity as well as luxurious item. There are found a large number of written and physical evidences, which prove that history of footwear goes back to centuries old Vedic period. Let's cast a glance over the history of shoes and sandals along with interesting facts.
Written evidences of the origin of footwear in India Footwear find mention in plenty of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain scriptures thereby testify that these were being worn by Indians since an erstwhile era.
* In ancient Indian texts Rigveda, Yajurveda Samhita, Atharvaveda, Brahmans and Panini Grammer, footwear has been mentioned with Sanskrit term ' Upanah' or 'Upanat'. These footwear (sandals and shoes) were made from grass, wood and leather.
* As per great epic Ramayana, Bharata rerurned from Chitrakuta carrying the Rama's paduka (toe-knob sandal or khadau) and ruled the Ayodhya after placing the paduka on a throne in Nandigram, as Rama's proxy. Ravana also holds an umbrella and wears shoes while assuming the form of ascetic for Sita's abduction.
* According to Mahabharata,once Jamadagni got enraged seeing her wife Renuka exhausted in scorching sun and started sending arrows against Sun god. Then Sun god presented him a pair of sandals and an umbrella to protect against the heat from below and above. In this great epic, shoes (upnate) and sandal or toe knob sandal (paduka or padu) are clearly differentiated. It also mentions that footwear stealer is born as an “Otikyata” (a lizard)
* In Shrimad Bhagwat Puran, Lord Vamana is mentioned wearing umbrella and shoes. Lord Krishna never wore shoes while herding the cows.
* As per Brahma Vaivarta Purana, one should not wear the shoes already worn by others.
* According to Garud purana, sandals and umbrella should be gifted on `Sraddha' day. Shoes stealer is born from sheeps' wombs.
* As per Vasstue shastra, footwear should be placed in south-west direction of hall and never in bedroom.
* While leaving the princely life in 5th century BC, Lord Buddha is mentioned in scriptures having taken off his sandals.
* n Mahavagga, a section of Buddhist scripture Vinaya Pitaka (5th century BCE ), sandals made of fancy materials were forbidden for monks and nuns. It mentions 4 types of shoes, which include Putabaddha (covering ankle), Tittirapttika (shape like partridge wings and adorned with horns of ram or goat), Padigunthima (full boot) and Tulapunnika (padded with cotton wool). Sandals with separate point like scorpion's sting and adorned with peacock feather were largely demanded but were forbidden for Buddhist monks.
* Banabhatta, the court-poet of emperor Harsh Vardhan has mentioned in his book Harshacharita (7th century) footwear.
* Mahavyutpatti (800-815 CE), which contains the Sanskrit and Tibetan terms for understanding Buddhist texts has mentioned the footwear as Padavestanika, Pula, Manda-pulah etc.
* And Jain scripture Brihat Kalpa Sutra Bhasya the guidelines for the attires and footwear of monks and nuns are given.
* Abhidhan Cintamani of Hemchandracharya (11th century) footwear are classified in several categories including Upanat (shoes), Paduka (sandals), Padarakasana etc.
* Paduka Sahasram” of Swami Vedantha Desika (1269 AD-1370 AD) contains the 1000 verses on the padukas of Lord Vishnu, whose statue is enshrined in Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Tamil Nadu).
Physical evidences of the footwear in India
Following sculptures, coins and paintings also throw a light upon the centuries old history of footwear in India:
* During the archeological excavation in Chandraketugarh (West Bengal), footwear of 200 BC with raised heel and floral motifs are found. Further, a terracotta sculpture (1st century) also wears a V shape sandal or chappal.
* Buddhist statues (3rd & 4th century) of Gandhara are portrayed wearing strapped sandals
* Numismatics have found the coins of Kushan period (130BC to 185AD) and Gupta period (320 to 550 AD), which feature kings wearing full boots.
* Ajanta cave paintings (4th to 5th century) also portray the people wearing stockings along with full boots.
* And some early Sanchi sculptures (3rd to12th century BCE) foreigners are depicted wearing boots.
* Amongst all Hindu deities, only Sun god is portrayed wearing the footwear. Modhera Sun temple ( 11th century CE) of Gujarat shows him wearing a belt and long shoes. The granite Sun statue of Dakshinaarka Sun Temple (13th century) of Gaya depicts him wearing a jacket, waist girdle and high boots.
* Bronze statue Chola period (11th to 2th century AD) also depicts the Bharat holding Ram's paduka over his head. Pahari Miniature painting of (17th century) shows Bharat worshiping Ram's paduka.
Interesting facts about the footwear
Below mentioned are some interesting facts about the footwear in Indian during modern era:
* Paduka of Lord Rama are worshiped even now also in Ram Paduka temples situated in Rameshwaram (Tamilnadu), Ramtek (Maharashtra) and other places.
* In Chencherimali Temple of South India, devotees carry leather sandals in honor of Lord Subrahmanya (Kartikeya, Murugan), as he is believed to wear leather shoes. His wife Valli is worshiped in form of sandal pairs in Marudhamalai, Chennilais, Palani and Sivanmalai (Tamil Naidu).
* In Vithoba festival, pilgrims travel to Pandharpur temple (Maharashtra) carrying the Padukas of saints Tukaram and Dnyaneshwar in a silver palanquin.
* In dian oleograph of Ravi Varma (19th century) shows Rama’s padukas and sword placed on a throne.
* Mahatma Gandhiji learnt the art of handcrafting shoes in South Africa and made a pair of shoes in African jail. While leaving the Africa, he presented shoes to president General Smutts, who was cruel towards Indians. Smutts kept it for 24 years and returned it to Gandhi on latter's 60th birthday. Gandhi also set up a tannery in Sabarmati Ashram (Ahmedabad) and made simple chappal a symbol of India's self-sufficiency during 20th century independence movement.
The History of The Kohlapuri Chappals
Introduction
Kohlapuri chappals or Kolhapuri are kitschy handcrafted slippers made form leather. A pair of kohlapuri chappals can can compliment a jeans and tshirt look as well as ethnic fashion wear like saree and Salwar Kameez. These chappals have gone through various innovations in the last decade, and have gained popularity across India and the world.
They are open toed in design with a T-Strap
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| Kolhapur Chappal |
BACKGROUND
Origin
According to historical evidence, the kohlapuri chappals were first worn in the early 13th century and originated in the state of Maharashtra. They were initially known as ‘Kapashi’, Pie-taan’, Kachkadi’, Bakkalnali’, and Pukari, since these were the names of the various villages where the chappals were made and hand crafted. The royal family of Maharashtra ‘Saudagars’ were the first ones to discover the uniqueness of the kohlapuri chappals and lent their creativity to what is today known as the kohlapuri chappal. The Saudagars created a thinner version of the chappal, which had two flaps on either side. They named it ‘Kanwali’, which literally meant a chappal with ears! The Chappals had a little decorative fur like ball in the centre which gave it a royal and elaborate appeal.
In the later years, these chappals were discovered by one of Bombay’s prominent shoe retailers J.J and Sons, who ordered 20 pairs from the Saudagar family and sold it in Bombay. Since the Kohlpauri chappals gained immense popularity, there was no turning back, and several craftsmen, who were mainly from the city of Athani in Maharashtra, mastered this art, but since the actual origin of these chappals was supposed to be kept secret, the name given to these chappals was that of Kohlapur. There are several craftsman and places in kohlapur who are masters of this craft as well, but the actual craftsman were from the Athani village.
Style
Originally, the Kohlapuri chappal was made using Buffalo-hide, and thread, and the sole was enormously thick which made the chappals weigh up to 2 kilos! The purpose of making such thick chappals was so that the wearer could endure the heat and the mountainous terrains of Maharashtra. These days however, the kohlapuri chappals are as light as a feather and have a thin and flat sole. The chappals are made from fine quality leather, and come in different styles, colors and designs.
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| Kolhapur Chappal Shop |
Innovations and Trends
The traditional kohlapuri chappals come in a tan brown color, with intricate thread designs woven onto the flap, with a bright red fur ball placed in the center. However, with the passage of time these chappals have gone through various new designs and styles, each made for people with different preferences. These days one can find kohlapuri chappals in all sorts of colors ranging from green, red, pink, gold, silver, purple, blue, yellow, black, orange; the list is endless. Certain twists in the basic design are also available, with double sided flaps, or extra embellishments such as sequins, pearls, or stones, which make the kohlapuri chappal suitable for more elaborate events such as weddings, parties, engagements, and religious occasions. Kohlapuri chappals basically come with a flat sole, however with recent innovations in Indian fashion, one can also find kohlapuri chappals with heels which add more glamor to this unique footwear.
Geometric patterns and funky designs have also been incorporated in the traditional kohlapuri chappals which make them a must-have for any young college girl. The price range for these chappals varies depending on the store or the retailer. One can find inexpensive kohlapuri chappals in local street markets, while the more expensive kind is available at high end handicraft stores. These chappals are also available online on different shopping sites, and can be delivered anywhere in the world. The most unique thing about these chappals is that they are uni sex, and can be worn by men as well. The kohlapuri chappals add instant traditional and ethnic appeal to any ensemble, whether it’s a simple kurta, sari, or a lehenga. They are mostly worn for casual attire, but the more elaborate kind can be worn for occasions that require more pomp.
Making Process of Kolhapuri Chappals
There are templates are used for making a basic design which is then cut on the processed leather. This cut piece is dipped in natural colours or dyes. Then the upper part of the Chappals and the sole are stitched with leather cords. Once they are joined, the outer decorations and designs are made which gives these chappals a trendy look. But people still prefer the traditional design of the chappals. The sole of the chappals is made of two or more leather pieces which are pasted and stitched together to give extra strength. The design patterns include golden strings that are locally called as gota. Today there are many designs available from simple designs to complicated designs.
The traditional designs are known as bakkalnali, pukari and kachkadi. Design of Kolhapuri Chappals Though leather foot wears are comfortable to wear they get easily torn due to the daily wear and tear, it is here that the importance of Kolhapuri chappals come to light. Kolhapuri chappals are thin and light weight chappals that are handmade in Kolhapur in the state of Maharashtra. These chappals are made from processed leather. Mainly buffalo, goat or bull hides are used in the manufacturing of these chappals. This leather is processed and grazed. The grazing makes the chappals more sturdy and durable for daily use that it can withstand the wear and tear. As only natural colours are used for dyeing these chappals, it can be worn without fear of allergies. Another important feature of Kolhapuri chappals is that there is no iron nails used in them.
With the increase in demand and popularity many other neighbouring areas like Dogari and Kapashi in Kolhapur have also started the manufacturing of the chappals. The popularity of this is mainly because of the fact that these are very trendy as well as formal which makes its suitable for any occasion. Moreover they are not expensive as well. The Kolhapuri chappals are still popular because of the intricacy in the craftsmanship and also due to the fact that it goes well with any outfit. It is comfortable, sturdy, trendy as well as cost effective.
Global Appeal
For any person who visits India, kohlapuri chappals are always on top of the list of ‘thing to buy’. Their stylish, ethnic, and comfortable quality have made them popular amongst several people in India and in western countries such as America, U.K, Canada, Europe, Middle East, and in other Asian countries as well like Pakistan and China.
Reference
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